{"id":3000,"date":"2014-01-14T10:17:18","date_gmt":"2014-01-14T09:17:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.quarantalocatelli.it\/charming-neckties-www-workstyle-ch\/"},"modified":"2019-03-29T22:45:18","modified_gmt":"2019-03-29T21:45:18","slug":"charming-neckties-www-workstyle-ch","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.quarantalocatelli.it\/en\/charming-neckties-www-workstyle-ch\/","title":{"rendered":"Charming Neckties (www.workstyle.ch)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Neckties have always been a symbol of sophistication. The most important personalities wore suits with ties as a sign of social status. Despite the fact that men are becoming increasingly casual in their manner of dress, we can be sure of something: the tie is an emblem that will never die.<\/strong><\/p>\n

USES
\n<\/b>The cravat is the most personal piece of clothing in a male wardrobe. \u201cA man chooses the tie he is going to wear because of his morning mood,\u201d Stefano Bigi, co-owner of Bigi Cravatte tells us. It is an accessory characteristic of a man who values classic tradition while paying careful attention to the latest developments in fashion trends. But what criteria might be used by a manager when it\u2019s time to choose the necktie? Gianni Cerutti, co-owner of Passaggio Cravatte claims that \u201cthere are no rules for a tie choice, or, better, there is only one rule: instinct. I always say that necktie choice is a true gesture of instinct. I like it or I don\u2019t. The truth is, when you are opposite the mirror, and you don\u2019t know what necktie you should wear, there are several factors you consider: humor, scale of vanity, weather, the importance of the day\u2019s events.\u201d The necktie is a piece of clothing you can always wear, whether you have a job meeting or you are going out with friends. As Giorgio Ricciardi, owner of Giorgio Napoli, says, \u201cNecktie choice must be absolutely rigorous in form, color, design. But it\u2019s obvious you can feel free to choose a holiday of colors or design when you are wearing it in your free time.\u201d<\/p>\n

PRODUCTION
\n<\/b>There is not a standard length of time for making neckties. The average is around forty-five to sixty minutes, but every brand has its own manufacturing times. Stefano and Paola Bigi, co-owner of Bigi Cravatte, calculate an average time of thirty-five to forty minutes for each tie. \u201cThe entire process is about thirty-five to forty minutes, but it could change depending on the number of labels we want on the tie, or if hand-rolled edges are required. The cleverness\u2014experience\u2013of the needlewomen is also very important,\u201d they tell us.
\nDifferent phases are required in necktie manufacturing, as Maria D\u2019Ambrosio, owner of Nodi d\u2019autore, explains. \u201cOurs is a handmade product. The first stage is the cut of the weave, and the second is the cut of the lining. Then the inside is cut (soul) with a machine known in Italian as \u201crasofilo.\u201d Then follows the ironing with the insertion of the soul (lining). When the necktie is finished, it has to be bended and manually sewed with a single thread. In the last stage, the keeper loop and the label will be put in place.\u201d
\nCosts of production include three areas: fabric, design, and labor. \u201cProduction costs depend on composition and complexity. Jacquard woven silks are the most luxurious and expensive types of silks to use. This type of silk is considered heavy so as to provide a reliable body. The complexity of the design is another factor, as each color represents an individual yarn fed into the loom,\u201d David Pireh, PR and CRM at Edwin Pireh tells us. In the majority of cases, fabric costs exceed labor costs. As Amedeo Quaranta, owner of Amedeo Quaranta Locatelli says, \u201cIn the making of a tie, various costs are involved, especially raw material costs (silk, wool, and cotton). These elements account for seventy percent of the total expense, and you have to add the labor costs (thirty percent).\u201d<\/p>\n

NUMBERS
\n<\/b>Making a handmade necktie is a process that needs the participation of different professionals, beginning with the choice of fabric made by a designer, followed by the production, and ending with the finishing touches. This slow process will not result in a large number of final products. At Drake\u2019s, for example, \u201cwe produce around 2,000 ties a week,\u201d Jamie Ferguson tells us.<\/p>\n

CHOOSING THE WEAVES
\n<\/b>Often the company owners make the style choices. At Bigi Cravatte, for example, Paola and Stefano choose their own collections. \u201cWe count on our own experience; we research with just the help of our archives.\u201d The situation is quite different for Passaggio Cravatte, where Marta Passaggio, co-owner and Gianni Cerruti choose only vintage silks. \u201cWe are always on the lookout for silks. We don\u2019t have a collection because vintage silks are endangered. We show what we find to our customers. Touching a silk from seventy years ago makes us feel so excited. To be used at Passaggio Cravatte, a silk has to thrill us,\u201d Cerruti tells us. A different approach is used at Cravattificio Diana, as Silvana Bressan, E-sales Manager, explains. \u201cThe style is followed by our style office who provide inputs to our designers. When designs are ready, they are sent to production, where they are colored, and where \u201cblankets\u201d are made; immediately afterward, the company picks the most suitable colors for the brand, which are sent to the final stage of production where samples and traces are made. These samples are shown in the boutique, and we then produce what we sell to customers.\u201d<\/p>\n

RELATIONS WITH CUSTOMERS
\n<\/b>Since a cravat selection is very personal, there is a close relationship between customer and tie seller. \u201cI personally know most of my clients, since each tie is custom-made,\u201d Mark Roscoe, owner of Mark Roscoe Designs, emphasizes. The seller should know about customers in order to show them the weaves that will be most appreciated by them. At Edwin Pireh, for example, \u201ca purchase is not just a purchase, it\u2019s personal. Every item we make is handmade, which means every item we have is one of a kind. Therefore, we like to keep in constant contact with our clients to ensure they love their item as much as we do. With Edwin Pireh bespoke, Edwin actually visits the client (anywhere in the world) and over a period of time will work with them from concept to completion stage,\u201d David Pireh concludes.<\/p>\n

Our Choice\u00a0<\/b>Work Style Selection<\/h4>\n

We researched producers and designers of ties until we had approximately 90 brands. Then our jury, including fashion experts, fashion bloggers, and fashion PR experts voted on the ties. The jury was composed of \u2022 Marta Scetta<\/strong>, Editor at the Work Style Magazine \u2022 Cristina Milani<\/strong>, Chairwoman, Gentletude Onlus \u2022 Maria Silvana Pavan<\/strong>, Independent Music Professional \u2022 Paolo Aicardi<\/strong> (Chairman), Commercial Director at Fondiaria-Sai and sports commentator at Telelombardia \u2022 Rosario Imperiali<\/strong>, founder Studio Legale Imperiali + Alliance Deloitte-Imperiali \u2022 Peter Conrad<\/strong>, Managing Director Head UHNW Segment Wealth Management \u2022 Emmanuel Maindron<\/strong>, independent journalist and freelance consultant \u2022 Palle Ellemann<\/strong>, Senior Consultant at GES \u2022 Sandro Lombardi<\/strong>, director of AITI for twenty-four years (1988-2009) \u2022 Jerzy Potocki<\/strong>, President of AIMS International Poland.<\/p>\n

Thanks<\/b><\/p>\n

We, at Work Style, want to thank all the brands that have taken part in the article:<\/p>\n